This is why the Furthermore Dey Cheated Us Shirt, I will do this several tons of damp clay taken from the L.A. studio of British artist Thomas Houseago—who has a statue currently installed in the center of the Palais de Tokyo courtyard as part of his “Almost Human” show at the Musee de l’Art Moderne—made for such a fitting addition to this show’s mise-en-scène. Houseago, Owens reported, had been on set to oversee the installation of the clay and even ended up creating a small sculpture (one that Owens fully intended to pinch, fire, and add to his collection). Houseago was just one in a chorus of creative voices that harmonized around this collection. Although there were some very overtly personal and Mexican touches, such as sequins reflecting China Poblana festival wear and the Aztec Eagle logo of the United Farm Workers’ association, for whose Mexican migrant pickers Owens’s father often worked as a translator in the California courts (these garments and a piece of jewelry will be sold to benefit the UFW), he said he was very careful to avoid the folkloric side of
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Mexican culture. Instead Dey Cheated Us Shirt, he said, he had become fascinated with the effect of Mexican culture on the work of Josef and Anni Albers, the subject of a recent-ish show at the Guggenheim. Owens expounded: “I loved that combination of modernism with something so ancient. Looking at the drawings they made that were inspired by the sites was the Mexico angle I wanted.” With the exception of some Perspex-heeled platforms and rough tire-sole cowskin sandals that caused much trepidation as the models descended steps while keeping their eyes fixed on the pit, it was also a collection abrim with highly wearable pieces. Personally I loved the cotton jackets in black and white set with austere, angled grids of ribbon and lacing, which was sometimes reflected in a riot of lacing on a Veja collab sneaker and looped into the fabric of some loose wool track pants. The sequins incorporated one-color oversize tailoring and looked pleasingly sleazy, while metallic-finished outerwear boasted a brutal industrial shimmer. In collaboration with Champion, Owens primitivized its cotton jersey via transformation into togas and loincloths. The fundamentals of most companies are not keeping up with the financial damage done by the pandemic and as the US continues to have soaring covid cases this will further create more stress on corporations. For now speculation is running ahead of the fundamentals especially for this quarter. Biotechnology is in a huge bubble in terms of the numbers of new Biotech IPOs being underwritten that have no revenues or earnings but retail investor rush to buy them.
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