Silhouettes were full, and the Furthermore Kelela Washed Away shirt, I will do this assembly of pieces used to achieve them—what the designer called a “potpourri”—was eclectically and raffishly combined. “What I really wanted to express was the free soul of the artist, and how he creates his own elegance,” said Curradi backstage. “There were elements mixed from the ’90s, the ’80s, and the ’40s.” The result was a collection that did all the hard work in conjuring an aura of insouciant panache so its wearers won’t have to. Salut! Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear.
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As always, his base is his materials and dyes Kelela Washed Away shirt. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change. The experimentation doesn’t stop there. For the first time in Geller’s career, he is using sequins on tanks, trousers, and shorts. “I wanted to get myself out of my comfort zone,” he explains. It’s a funny way of putting it; the backs of the sequin garments are actually made of nylon ripstop, so they are comfortable to sit in. Even with a fantastical mood haunting this season, amplified by wigs by Chrystoph Marten, Geller can’t help but be pragmatic. Yes it is a bubble, although most people want to believe it is not. If you study the fundamentals like the Income Statements quarterly for the past 12 quarters you will find that fundamentals are lagging for many of this high-flying companies. If a company has negative earnings, as some tech companies that are being speculated do have negative or declining earnings or revenues or both, then this is considered a bubble.
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